Quadratic reciprocity — the ladder
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Counting one rectangle, twice
Whether seven is a square modulo eleven, and whether eleven is a square modulo seven, are two unrelated-looking questions. Their answers are linked, and the link is a rectangle of dots counted along its rows and then along its columns.
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The two supplements, and where the eight comes from
The main law relates two odd primes to each other and says nothing about −1 or about 2. Those two are settled separately, by their own counts, and the answers arrive modulo four and modulo eight — which is a clue about where the whole subject is really taking place.
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The symbol is the sign of a shuffle
Multiplying every residue modulo p by a fixed number rearranges them. That rearrangement is a permutation, permutations have a sign, and the sign is exactly the Legendre symbol — so a question about squares becomes a question about crossings.
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One sum, squared two ways
Add the p-th roots of unity, each taken with a plus or a minus according to whether its index is a square. The walk that results closes on a point at distance √p from the origin — and squaring that one number, evaluated two different ways, is the reciprocity law.
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Which primes a form takes
A prime is the sum of two squares exactly when it is 1 modulo 4. Change the form slightly, to x² + 27y², and no congruence on p decides it at all — which is where the elementary subject ends and its successor begins.